Rearing.
Your guide to rearing chicks, ducklings, and young birds to adults. Photos and all the details on them growing up from young cute birds to fully mature adults.
This page covers:
To aid with easy browsing and being able to find what you need fast we have made a list of the different topics covered on this page. Numbered them and have included details on each section. Then all you need to do is find the number by scrolling below. The number will be to the left of the page in a large font so it is easy to find or just scroll below reading it at your own pace.
1 - An introduction. Section includes: About rearing, the different options and a general introduction to the subject..
2 - Rearing with a broody. Section includes: How to rear birds using a broody. What kind of housing you need, everything you need to do and more.
3 - Rearing Artifically. Section includes: How to rear your birds using a heat lamp or brooder. What you need, how to set-up your brooding pen.
4 - Vacinating Birds. Section includes: Why vacinate birds and more.
5 - Sexing young bids. Section includes:
6 - Allowing them outside. Section includes:
7 - Holding and Catching your birds. Section includes: How to do this with phots and more.
8 - Section includes:
9 - Section includes:
There is a helpful panel at the bottom with further useful links to other related and useful areas on Poultry Talk and other sites.
1 - An Introduction.
So you have successfully hatched your birds which means the next important stage is the rearing to produce fit, strong healthy adult birds which in the furture you can breed from to. It is a joy to see the birds grow up and can be very interesting seeing how much they change and develop from small cute chicks/ducklings/goslings to beautiful mature birds. Although it can be a stressful and worrying time when you have to be checking your birds a lot the end result usally makes it all worth while.
There are two methods of rearing, you can do it naturally by using a broody or artifically using an artificial heat source. You may be allowing your broody to brood your young birds if she has hatched them or if you have bought some in because she is broody. You may decide to take them from the incubator and put under a broody or take the young away from the broody and rear using an artifical heat source.
Some people argue that artificial is better or a broody is better to use but we will let you make your own decision.
Below are some positive and negative points for each option:
Broody.
A broody can be good because they will not stop when the power runs.
Have to pay for feed and water bills.
It is a more natural option and they will naturally teach the chicks how to do different things.
Take up more room.
In some cases they are cheaper to have in the first place and you have no electricity bills.
Artificial Heat Source.
There as a constant back-up and on hand to be used and plugged in at anytime so you don't have to wait for a broody and do not need to worry that she will stop being broody.
Cost a lot to buy one in the first place and take up room when not in use.
You can use at any time of the year.
Cannot use if their is a power cut.
Do not need to worry about it turning and attcking the chicks or standing on them.
So as you can see each have their own positve and negative points but it is your choice in the end and which ever is best for you.
Before hand make sure you know what you are doing and have everything ready and planned so you can move quickly when it comes to the time.
2 - Rearing with a broody.
An Apricot Call Duck with her day-old Apricot Call Ducklings.
If your young birds are being reared by a broody then they can be housed in a broody coop/ark or in an indoor pen as seen above.
Using an ark.
A suitable broody ark. Note the green netting on top for shade and that it has a mesh top.
Make sure there is a good mesh roof on it and the whole of the run is covered in mesh as wild birds will take young birds else.
In the hot wheather you should put something on the top of the run and/or on one side to add shade as the birds will not want it to hot.
Make sure their is enough room for the mother and all of her young and that they can easily get in and out of the house into the run and back into the house.
Ideally wire should be put on the bottom of the run to protect againest predators and make sure none of the birds can escape. It is not so comfortable for the birds and aslong as the birds are shut in before it is dark and let out when it is light it should not really be needed. Some predators may strike in the day so it depends on you and your decision. If you know there are predators around or are not home or near where the birds are during the day then it may be best to do this.
Bedding should be a medium layer of shavings as they can not get tangled up in this and it is hygenic. Make sure all areas of the house are covered in it and it is the same level all over the pen.
Make sure when shutting and letting the birds in and out that they are all their and are all going under the mum for warmth and are all fine.
They should be shut in before it gets dark and when it is light in the morning. When it is very wet or cold it might be best to keep them shut in. Make sure that they don't get cold and keep checking them.
Keeping the broody in a pen.
Make sure there are no corners or gaps where the young birds can hide or get stuck and that the pen is not to big.
The bedding should be an even medium layer of shavings or bedding of your choice.
You may wish to use wooden, plastic or metal boards to make the pen smaller.
Ensure no birds or predators can get inside.
Water and food.
Water should be placed in the run (if in a coop) and in a drinker as shown below so no young birds can get in and drown and it also makes it cleaner and prevents wastage.
If you add a probiotic to the water this will help the chicks/babies. Water must be provided at all times.
Food can be placed in or out but make sure there is enough light inside for them to be able to see so they can eat it and if it outside make sure their is protection for it from the rain and Weather. Food should be able to be easily accessed by the birds and you can provide pellets of food for the broody but ensure the young ones have no access by placing it higher up or using another method. No doutb the broody will it eat the food ment for the chicks/ducklings/goslings but this does not matter.
Food can be provided in a feeder as shown below, placed on a Chick Crumb Tray (when using Chick Crumbs), in a long feeder, container or even an egg carton just make sure they all can all access it and it's safe.
Porridge Oats and hard boiled egg chopped finely can be sprinkled onto the food to get them started and interested in the food, note though not to give them to much and only for the first few days to encourage them to start eating.
By feeding food in a proper feeder as shown above it will reduce wastage and keep it clean.
For chicks, duclings and goslings feed them:
Chick Crumbs should be fed in a feeder ad-lib from day-old to six weeks.
Growers Pellets should be fed from six weeks to 18 weeks.
Wheat and Grit should be fed from eight - ten weeks.
Layers pellets should be fed from eighteen weeks or the approiate food for waterfowl.
You should feed a balenced diet containing pellets, wheat and grit when they are older. This can be suplemented with items including nettlles which can be a vauleable source of nutrients.
If the broody has incubated them:
When your broody hatches your chicks she should be fine but you need to remove any egg shells and eggs which have not hatched after 48 hours and if you can hear no movement inside.
Any eggs which are left or if none hatch you could try testing them in a bowl of warm water and if the eggs come to the top and move then they are alive so put them back under if they don't discard them and the broody can go back to her normal pen. If they still don't hatch after 24 hours from that they will have probably of died so discard the eggs and the broody can go back to her normal pen.
Using the broody to rear them.
If you have bought in chicks or incubated some and want a broody to rear them that is fine and your broody should rear them. When you buy in chicks make sure they are what you have specified, try and see if you can get them so they are vaccinated and make sure they have come from a reliable source and are fit and healthy. They should be less than 24 hours old and will not need you to give them food first of all as they can live off the yolk inside them but will need water so dip their beaks in some water before (better if it has a probiotic in it) before you put them with a broody then put them into a box with some shavings in the bottom and holes to allow them to breathe and place them next to the broody. This lets the broody hear them first as in nature the broody hears, feels and then sees the chicks. Then gently put the chicks under her so she feels them and then she can see them. You can then leave them and should be fine with them. Make sure you keep checking though.
If you are adding chicks to the ones she has already hatched, you can add any colour and number (within reason) within the first 24 hours but after that you need to make sure they are the same colour as exisitng chicks but the number (within reason) does not matter.You should never let your broody and chicks in with any other birds until they can look after themselves and are in the same pen with the broody.
Keep an eye on their bottoms incase they become blocked and make sure they are all looking healthy.
Make sure you....
Keep checking on her, keep topping up the food, replacing the water every day making sure their litter and bedding is clean and replace and clean out ofton. If they have access to a run make sure it is moved every day. Also increase their space as they grow older. You can also put Polythene on the run to protect from wind and rain and add fabric for shade. When the chicks are no longer needing their mum and are not very dependant on her you can then think about removing her, generally this is after 6 weeks when the broody starts to loose interest aswell. Make sure the birds are fully hardy and can survive several nights and days on their own before removing her.
3 - Rearing Artifically.
If you are rearing you birds artifically then they need to be reared indoors until they are off-heat.
To provide heat and warmth there are several different options:
You could use a heat lamp.
If you use a Dark heat ceramic infra red light it gives them a duller light to sleep in and reduces feather pecking. It is recommened it that it is two inches aboving the bedding.
Click here for details and somewhere to buy them.
You could use Brooders. There are several different models available.
View models and somewhere to buy them.
Make sure these are working correctly and plugged in safely and allow them to reach their temperture and to warm the pen up before adding the young birds.
If the birds are spread out from the lamp then adjust the height and bring it up a bit. If they are all huddled in under the lamp them lower it. Adjust this accordingly.
To make the pen that you have smaller and ensure chicks cannot hide or get stuck in corners you could try using wooden, metal or plastic boards that interlook or that you can clip together to create a circle around the brooder allowing enough room for food and water and the birds around the brooder and from the direct light of the lamp. Make sure there are no gaps or areas where they could escape or/and get stuck.
View some boards here that you could use and where you can buy some.
For bedding it is important to have a nice layer to keep the chicks warm. You can use two layers and different mixtures. Some people use shavings and then shreded paper, or you could just use shavings (recommened). Another tip is to put plastic underneath which helps with cleaning out and hygiene.
Water should be in a drinker as shown below so no young birds can get in and drown and it also makes it cleaner and prevents wastage.
If you add a probiotic to the water this will help the chicks/babies. Water must be provided at all times.
Food can be provided in a feeder as shown below, placed on a Chick Crumb Tray (when using Chick Crumbs), in a long feeder, container or even an egg carton just make sure they all can all access it and it's safe.
Porridge Oats and hard boiled egg chopped finely can be sprinkled onto the food to get them started and interested in the food, note though not to give them to much and only for the first few days to encourage them to start eating.
By feeding food in a proper feeder as shown above it will reduce wastage and keep it clean.
For chicks, duclings and goslings feed them:
Chick Crumbs should be fed in a feeder ad-lib from day-old to six weeks.
Growers Pellets should be fed from six weeks to 18 weeks.
Wheat and Grit should be fed from eight - ten weeks.
Layers pellets should be fed from eighteen weeks or the approiate food for waterfowl.
Make sure all the birds can easily access the food and water but cannot drown in the water or get stuck in the feeders/drinkers.
Make sure no predators or others birds can get into the pen and that have enough light during the day.
As they grow order rember to increase their space, change food accordingly and if you raise the feeder(s) and drinker(s) off the ground this will help perevent them getting clogged up with bedding and dirt. Clean them out regulary and make sure their pen stays clean.
The temperture that they are reared in should be gradully reduced by using a thermostat or increasing the disctance your lamp is from the bedding in the pen as they become older. The heat source can also be turned off during the day and at six weeks aslong as the weather is mild. If you are going to put them outside make sure they have been without no heat for five days and nights.
Keep an eye on their bottoms incase they become blocked and make sure they are all looking healthy.
4 - Vacinating birds.
Birds can be vacinated againest different diseases to prevent the birds having certain diseases. The vacinations can last for different periods of time and it can be good to vacinate your stock and buy in vacinated stock as they should then be immune to some diseases. If you buy in any chicks and growers they may be vaccinated already so check and find out how long ago.
*Chicks are usally vacinated againest Marek's Disease for life.
*Newcastle's Disease (Fowl Pest) and Rhinotracheiti (TRT) at 9 and 15 weeks.
There are also other vacinations available and those are just to show you. Rember your birds may not be vacinated so check. It is not a must but a recommened option. Contact your vet for more details on this.
5 - Sexing chicks.
Chicks can be sexed from day old by their vent. There are professional people which do this for larger hatcheries and breeders but you need to know exactly how to do this if you are going to do it else you may damage the young bird.
Another different method which may be regarded as being easier is going by the shape of their feather but this has to be done when they are older.
More details on this coming soon!
6 - Allowing your birds outside.
When you put them outside again rember to make sure you keep topping up the food and keep making sure the water is clean. Keep an eye out for feather pekcing as if they are not stimulated and the weather is hot and sunny they may be inclined to. You could trim their beaks if you wanted to help prevent this but this is usally an option only professional breeders choose and it can de-vaule the price of your birds, make them look not so pretty and not everyone agrees with it, if you do it, it is something which stays like it for the rest of their lives. Make sure you think about it first, research it and carry it out correctly and safely.
Here is a group of growers outside and you can see they are seperated from other stock by using wire fencing.
When housing them it may be a good idea as they are younger to house them in sheds which have slatted/wire floors as if they crowd due to fright from say light which they are not use to it enables better ventilation and the ones at the bottom can breathe more easily else they could sufficate.
if you are buying in birds at this stage make sure you find out about how they have been kept, what they were fed on and the light pattern they have been use to and make sure you adjust and accomdate for them. Also find about if they have been vacinated againest any diseases and try and find out some background information so you know that they have been kept in clean conditions.
7- How the birds grow and change.
Birds can grow up so fast from very sweet and cute little chicks, ducklings and goslings into big magnificent beautfiul birds.
It can be very interesting seeing how birds develop and change over time especialy in a week. You may think a week is not a very long time but they can change a lot.
Nellie and Carrie at Pekin 4 Eva are currently creating and building up a libray of different breeds and the different colours of breeds on their website and how they devlop and grow from day old withy weekley photos.
All the photos have been organised into breed and colour sections to make easy viewing.
So now you can see how many different breeds change from a fluffy chick into adult birds week by week on the Pekins 4 Eva website.
Go To: http://www.pekins4eva.me.uk/index2.html and then to the Babies Page!
Nellie and Carrie still need many more people who are committed to sending in weekly photos of chicks of different breeds. Contact them for more information by emailing them at: NelNDave@aol.com
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